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Paul Smith, Marine Serre, Plan C and More to Headline Pitti Uomo in June

The menswear trade show, running June 11 to 14, is cooking up its recipe to heighten its appeal and offset the many looming circumstances fashion is facing.

Paul Smith, Marine Serre, Plan C and More to Headline Pitti Uomo in June

Street style at Pitti Uomo 104 in Florence, Italy, on June 13, 2023.

MILAN — The upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, slated to run June 11 to 14, is going to be a touchstone for the global state of menswear at a time when the luxury and fashion sectors are coming back down to earth after a couple of years of phenomenal growth fueled by the post-pandemic euphoria.

Organizers have been busy assembling another packed schedule of on- and off-fair events, cooking up their recipe to heighten the menswear fair’s appeal, and offset the many looming circumstances including currency headwinds and geopolitical instability. 

“When the market is facing hiccups, then buyers start traveling,” said Pitti Immagine president Antonio De Matteis, who is also chief executive officer of Kiton, unveiling the edition’s schedule on Tuesday. “Once again fashion needs to face external factors, but I’m sure it will again react exceptionally,” De Matteis said. 

According to preliminary data provided by industry association Sistema Moda Italia, exports of the country’s menswear increased 6.5 percent in 2023 versus a year earlier to 9.5 billion euros driven by countries such as France, Germany and the U.S. Double-digit growth in exports were registered toward China and South Korea, up 13.9 and 18.1 percent, respectively.

Data did not include any assessment of the first quarter of 2024 when many brands experienced a slowdown in revenue growth, reported in quarterly results.

The 106th Pitti Uomo, De Matteis said, is expected to drive more international buyers — including from countries that had been recently underrepresented such as China and South Korea. The executive also highlighted that American buyers from specialty and niche boutiques are expected to return after a few years’ hiatus. 

A trifecta of designer brands is to headline the edition with Paul Smith hosting a show on the opening night, June 11, at Villa Favard, one of the campuses of the Polimoda fashion school. The British designer, who first showed in town in 1993, is expected to hold a lecture for the students the day after. 

Marine Serre is staging her first stand-alone menswear runway show at the Villa di Maiano venue on June 12, and Pierre-Louis Mascia is going to cap off the fair off his first ever show on June 13 at Florence’s Tepidarium del Roster greenhouse.

Paul Smith, Marine Serre, Plan C and More to Headline Pitti Uomo in June

Street style at Pitti Uomo 104 in Florence, Italy, on June 13.

These anticipated events will be flanked by Missoni’s one-off decamping to Florence to unveil the spring 2025 menswear collection titled “Inspired by Tai,” a tribute to the house’s late cofounder Ottavio Missoni, affectionately called Tai. Yali, too, will move to Florence to spotlight Pia Zanardi’s menswear, typically unveiled during women’s Milan Fashion Week in a coed presentation format. 

Among the debuts, Plan C will is to unveil its first menswear collection at the Fortezza da Basso’s Spazio Grotte, with an installation by Duccio Maria Gambia, as reported, while the newly established TRC brand hinged on sustainable workwear and launched by leading denim firm Candiani and Grassi, a workwear company, will officially launch at Pitti Uomo.

The trade show has already secured 790 exhibitors, 43 percent of which are international. “Pitti Uomo allows companies with sales below 10 million euros to meet thousands of buyers,” De Matteis offered, reiterating the importance of the event for small and medium-sized enterprises. 

In keeping with its format, the fair’s pavilions will spotlight the Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling and I Go Out sections, flanked by the eighth iteration of the S/Style Sustainable Style section area. 

For the latter, Pitti Uomo has linked again with Kering’s Materials Innovation Lab, or MIL, offering brands on show — which include Buzigahill; Caoimhe Dowling; Denzil Patrick; Florania; Permu; Tolo; Viapiave33; Guido Vera; Domenico Orefice, and Unsung Weavers — not only some visibility but also an opportunity to engage with sustainability and material experts of the French group with workshops hinged on “circular luxury.”

The fair will also reprise its vintage section with 10 retailers active in this sphere hitting the fairgrounds.

Paul Smith, Marine Serre, Plan C and More to Headline Pitti Uomo in June

Street style at Pitti Uomo 104 in Florence, Italy, on June 13.

In addition to spotlighting Japan and Scandinavia through the ongoing sections J Quality and Scandinavian Manifesto, respectively, Pitti Uomo is introducing two new thematic areas. China Wave, the result of a partnership with the China National Garment Association will display seven Chinese brands including Valleyouth; KB Hong by K-Boxing; Raxxy; JDV; Fenggy; Blackhead, and Keyone by Hattershu. The fair is also rebooting Promas, a section dedicated to about 28 French brands selected by the Promas menswear federation.

The physical trade show will be flanked by the Pitti Connect digital platform.

Pitti Uomo will be followed by Pitti Bimbo, from June 19 to 21, and Pitti Filati, from June 25 to 27 dedicated to childrenswear and yarn makers, respectively.

The fair organizer Pitti Immagine is also bowing a new show, called Becycle and dedicated to cycling and bike brands, whose inaugural edition is taking place at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda venue from June 26 to 28, wrapping up the day before the 111th Tour de France cycling competition kicks off from the Italian city.