This Swiss hotel is changing the game in sustainable ski resorts

Alpine charm in buckets.

Sitting down at the bar at the Riders Hotel in Laax, Switzerland, my attention is briefly drawn from the sweeping alpine landscape to a number of curious black dots on the glass windows of the hotel. A kooky decor decision? Nope. A quick Google search teaches me that they are scientifically proven to prevent bird collisions, in order to protect the local wildlife. When my drink arrives, it of course comes with a reusable glass straw. Really, I shouldn't be surprised – since Laax has earned a reputation as one of Switzerland's greenest and most ethical ski resorts.

Nestled in the heart of the Swiss Alps 90 minutes by car from Zurich, Laax is a municipality in the Surselva Region in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. Known informally as the ‘California of the Swiss Alps’, it is hailed as a haven for sports enthusiasts, skiers, snowboarders and hikers who come to enjoy its pristine slopes, sweeping mountain views, lively village atmosphere and friendly community. Me included.

A ‘green’ reputation

Like I said, Laax has become known as one of the ski regions that's most committed to sustainability, but what does that really look like in practice? Well for starters, it means that 30% of the resort’s total power is generated by solar and wind power from the Vorab glacier. This is no mean feat when you consider the vast amount of energy it takes to run a busy Alpine resort. Laax is also hoping to change habits by encouraging visitors to hire electric cars – and providing car charging stations (plus an emission-free shuttle service powered by solar and hydro energy). As for the protection of wildlife, there are areas reserved for their natural habitats so they can hibernate during the winter months undisturbed. Top marks.

As an eco-conscious skier, I was particularly impressed with the resort's new on-demand gondola, too, which backs up Laax's plan to become totally carbon-neutral by 2030. Essentially, it's a way more sustainable concept – since no empty gondolas are in use, it cuts emissions by up to 50%. You can even charge your phone onboard, which is super handy.

Where to stay: Riders Hotel

Riders is the first hotel in Laax to use 100% renewable energy, so you can count on its seriously green credentials. And while green energy may be at the core of its mission, it doesn’t take away from the vibes of this modern hotel – with its sleek, raw material-focused design.

Rooms

Impressive energy stats aside, rooms at the Riders are just as chic as they are environmentally-conscious.

I stayed in a double room, which left me feeling suitably catered for every night after a long day's skiing – from the comfy double bed to the seriously welcoming walk-in shower; not to mention those floor-to-ceiling windows showing off beautiful mountain views.

There are also family, friends and studio rooms available – so whatever your sleeping arrangements, you're covered. With exposed wood details and modern mid-century touches, the Riders Hotel strikes an ideal balance between cosy and contemporary, which is no mean feat.

The hotel lobby and bar is where the fun starts. After hours, there's a buzzy cocktail-style bar (with a seriously substantial drinks list), where guests and visitors mingle for one of the coolest après-ski experiences I've ever had.

Après-ski delights

Speaking of: Laax is equally vibrant after the sun sets. You can enjoy a traditional Swiss fondue in a cosy mountain hut or dance the night away to live music in one of its venues.

The resort’s eco-friendly initiatives also extend to its culinary offerings. The list reads like a dream; no fish from the red list, eighty per cent of their coffee is fair-trade and local produce is used whenever possible. Whilst vegetarians may struggle to find suitable options at other meat-favoured ski resorts, that won't be an issue in Laax – where options are plentiful and meatless substitutes are available for most dishes.

In fact, The Riders Hotel is home to the first vegetarian restaurant in Laax. Chef Pascal Bertschinger creates a new menu every Saturday – using seasonal ingredients from regional producers, of course. I feasted on apple and beetroot rolls with bruised radicchio, hazelnuts and watercress for starters, creamy polenta with root vegetables for main and white chocolate ice cream with sweet corn and tarragon meringue for dessert.

A day trip to Rhine Gorge

Most Laax lovers will tell you that a visit is not complete without a trip to Rhine Gorge, a.k.a. the ‘Swiss Grand Canyon’, as many call it. With one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the region, its accessible hiking trails are particularly beautiful in snowy winters.

I embarked on a leisurely hike up to the II Spir viewing platform, just a stone's throw from Restaurant Conn. From there, I soaked in a panoramic 180-degree view of the ‘Swiss Grand Canyon’. Everywhere you glanced offered stunning vistas and being out in nature had an oddly calming effect after a day of skiing.

Returning home from Laax, I felt rejuvenated. Sure, I honed my skiing skills on the slopes, but what charged my batteries was the time spent amidst the mountains, breathing in that crisp alpine air and immersing myself in natural beauty. And let's not forget the variety of activities beyond skiing—hiking, leisurely rides in horse-drawn carriages—the list goes on.

Laax isn't just for the eco-conscious traveller looking to shrink their carbon footprint, though that's a plus. It's a playground for ski buffs, outdoor enthusiasts, and avid hikers alike, all drawn to its stunning landscapes and endless outdoor adventures and there's something satisfying about knowing that every moment spent in Laax contributes to a more sustainable way of living. It's like a little eco-friendly pat on the back—a bonus that makes the experience even sweeter.

Swiss Air flies to Zurich from major London and regional airports. Swiss Air transports your first set of ski or snowboard equipment and boots free of charge. One-way fares start from £76.