2023 Top 100: Tightened Distribution, Innovation: LVMH’s Beauty Strategy Outmatches China Slowdowns

The company’s innovation-focused approach stabilized growth – and profits – as sales in Asia shrunk.

Dior J’Adore

Innovation and continued control over distribution were cited by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as the key drivers for its beauty division’s growth last year. Like many of its competitors, lackluster sales in China continued to weigh on business; the weight of Asia (outside Japan) in the division’s sales shrank for the fourth consecutive year, down from 45% in 2020 to just 33% last year.

The division’s profit margin remained roughly stable year-on-year at 8.6%, down from 10.3% in 2021.

Megabrand Parfums Christian Dior’s sales performance was “remarkable,” the company said, and it reinforced its leading position in Europe, Japan and the Middle East while posting strong gains in Southeast Asia, the U.S. and South Korea. Sauvage was once again the bestselling fragrance worldwide, and J’adore and Miss Dior got line extensions, including J’adore Parfum d’Eau, what the company claims is the first long-lasting alcohol-free scent. High-end line La Collection Privée Christian Dior grew with the addition of Dioriviera. The brand’s makeup was driven by Dior Addict Lip Maximizer and Forever Skin Correct. Premium skin care line Prestige did well in Asia. Guerlain saw solid momentum in fragrance and makeup, with the former expanding with the Aqua Allegoria Forte line of intense scents and L’Art et la Matière, which has seen its sales double in two years. Parfums Givenchy gained market share, in part driven by star fragrance L’Interdit.

Benefit continued to lead in brow beauty and mascara, LVMH said, and added skin care to its mix with The Porefessional Pore Care, leaning in on its cult primer franchise. Make Up For Ever continued to dig into its makeup artist heritage to drive its revamp, launching a powder foundation in the HD Skin range. Kenzo added to the Flower by Kenzo range and relaunched Kenzo Homme. Maison Francis Kurkdjian continued to expand selectively and launched Aqua Media eau de parfum. It also inaugurated a “Perfumer’s Garden” at the Château de Versailles as part of its corporate giving program.

Other CSR initiatives included a collaboration between Dior and WWF to help preserve and restore biodiversity over 15,000 hectares in France and North America, and the expansion of Guerlain’s Women for Bees program in Mexico and Rwanda in partnership with UNESCO and local NGOs.

Following the appointment of Stéphane Rinderknech as chairman and chief executive officer of the Perfumes and Cosmetics division last March, and a subsequent shakeup at the head of its top brands, there were further executive moves at LVMH. Ada Lien was named chief executive officer at Fresh, replacing Anne Collinet, while Nathalie Elbaz succeeded Anne-Véronique Bruel as the CEO of Officine Universelle Buly.

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